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The FASCAR 500 track
is built on a 32" hollowcore door. The track layout barely
fits on the door, but I wanted spin aprons (curve borders) on all
curves, so I screwed a furring strip (nominal 1x2" lumber,
actual 3/4"x 1.5") to each of the long sides, making the
overall layout size 35" x 79".
I cut the ends of the
furring strip at 45 degrees giving the table beveled corners, so
people were less likely to snag their clothing as they walked around
it, and especially as they squeezed into the drivers' area between
the table and the couch.
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The door was bought at a garage
sale for $1.50, banged up and patched on one side. 32" doors are
available at the second-hand building supplies store near me for a few
dollars. New, they run about $25, but since nobody sees the surface, scratches,
dents and holes don't matter much, so used is as good as new. If you don't
want to bother with adding the extensions on the sides, get a 36"
door, but they are harder to find than the 32" ones.
The tabletop (door) sat on
two wooden "TV Tray" folding tables, and was surprisingly stable.
Once the wiring was tested it was duct-taped to the underside of the table
to keep the wires from hanging down and snagging.
The hills were slabs of styrofoam,
cut or broken to shape, and with the exposed edges painted to resemble
rock faces. Be sure to use plastic-compatible paint. They were stacked
in layers. The long downhill straight was supported by a ramp of extruded
styrofoam insulation, which has more rigidity than regular styrofoam beadboard.
The upward surfaces were topped
with a green felt cloth just tacked to the table edges with a stapler
or lightly glued to the hills with glue-stick. Model railroad lichen was
used for bushes, scattered about and stuffed into any place where I wanted
to hide something (a gap, electrical terminals, space under the ramp track).
The trees were old plastic pine trees that snap together in layers (Aurora
made a hard plastic version and AHM/Roco used to make flexible plastic
ones). These don't shed fluffy foam or sawdust on the track, and can take
a lot of punishment from players reaching to reslot cars.
Trees and people were held
to the felt by tacky, water-soluble glue-stick. They pull off easily at
takedown time, and pop off, instead of breaking, if hit by a car or a
hand.
The track was the old Aurora
Model Motoring "pin and joiner" track. It was made for Aurora's
Thunderjet and vibrator cars, and will handle
competitor cars of the same era, such as Lionel, Tyco, Atlas, Marx, and
Faller. Aurora's early AFX cars will run on it if the pin-end of the guide
piece is used.
Since I was not able to find
Model Motoring 6" radius 1/8 curves, I hand-modified three pieces
of Tomy track to mate with the old Aurora. These worked, but the joints
were rougher than I wanted occasionally causing cars to hang up. If anyone
has a few Aurora MM or AFX 6"R 1/8 curves that you are willing to
let go at a reasonable price, please contact
me (not the common 6"R 1/4 curves, but the very short
1/8 curves, MM #1540 or AFX #2540). Broken joiner claws on the AFX track
are all right with me.
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Spin aprons were made
from a model railroad product called HO cork roadbed. Each roadbed
piece splits into two three-foot cork strips that bend around track
curves to provide fishtailing space. This keeps cars on the outside
lane from unfairly using the guardrails to power around the curves
and saves wear on the car bodies and bumpers. I lightly sprayed
the cork black, so it wouldn't look so much like, well, cork roadbed.
To keep the nails from dimpling the cork near the track (as you
see in the photo), I started nailing the cork near the outside edge.
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At the edge of the spin aprons,
standard soft-plastic guardrails keep deslotted cars from flying off the
table. They are held in place by wire brads, about the height of the guardrail,
driven into the table on either side of the guardrail posts. You can see
these in the picture.
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Click the wiring diagram
at left to bring up a full-sized
version.
Wires connect only at
dots. Wire-nuts make an insulated connection.
The plan as drawn requires
two of Aurora's separate clip-on terminal pieces. Allternate locations
are shown if you wish to use standard 9" terminal tracks instead.
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POWER
SUPPLIES and CONTROLS
A semi-permanent power-board (a 24" laminated shelf) sits on
the floor and provides a handy way to use and store the power supply
for the track.
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The powerpacks
are held on the power board by self-adhesive magnetic strips stuck
to the board. Any powerpack can easily be pulled off for repair
or replacement.
The screw-type
terminal strip and the switched power-outlet-bar are held on the
board by two-sided foam tape.
A separate
powerpack for each lane insures that no racer can cause a competitor
to spin out by suddenly cutting power to his own car, thus causing
an unexpected power boost to the other lanes
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Plugging
all the packs into a permanently-mounted power-outlet bar minimizes
cord clutter and lets the Course Marshall start races by simultaneously
turning on power to all four lanes at the power strip switch. Get
an outlet bar with a lighted switch, so you can tell when it's on
- these are 40-year old powerpacks, so you want to make sure the
power is turned off when you're not using them.
Make sure all powerpacks
have the same output voltage and are all DC packs.
Aurora powerpacks came in a range of voltages, including 12, 18,
20, and 22-volt. The voltage is printed on the top, but it's not
a bad idea to check them with a meter to make sure they are delivering
the rated voltage.
Do not use the
Aurora AC early powerpacks intended for use with the vibrator cars
- they will damage
or burn out
the DC motors on Thunderjet, AFX, Tyco and most other cars. If AC
power reaches a DC motor even momentarily, the motor coils can be
weakened, and sustained exposure can fry the motor.
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This photo shows the
drivers' stations for the red and black lanes. Each station has
a feed-thru style terminal strip screwed to the side of the table.
Controller wires can clip or screw to these strips. Each station
is marked with tape of the lane color and has a cup-hook to hang
the controllers.
The backs of the controllers
themselves also sport a square of colored tape matching their lane.
Barely visible in the
shadow at right is the pace-car's
constant-speed bypass controller which can clip to the terminals
of any lane. Check the wiring diagram above to see which screws
are used on the pace controller.
The coffee-table (and
clutter beneath it} were not a part of the racing table support
system. They just happened to be under it.
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All things
come to an end.
Lack of
space means the equipment has to go back into storage. This time,
though, it won't be another 15 years before it comes out again.
A second race event is already in the planning stage.
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